Happy Saints Day!

It’s St. Nicholas Day tomorrow, December 6th, a day that’s celebrated all over Greece.  He is the protector of sailors but here in Limenas (Thassos town) it is also a local holiday as he is the patron saint of the town.

All  Greek Othodox churches and chapels are named after a saint and the main church here in town is dedicated to St Nicholas. Services are being held this evening and tomorrow morning, culminating in the icon of St Nicholas being carried through the town, led by the priest and accompanied by many local people of all ages.

Traditionally in Greece, babies are named after their grandparents and so certain names are carried down through the centuries within the families. As the majority of Greeks are named after saints most will celebrate a Name Day (or Saints Day) at some time in the year.

Yesterday was St Barbara, today is St Savva and, as I’ve said,  tomorrow anyone called Nicholas or Nikoletta will be enjoying the company of friends and family.

The normal greeting when you meet someone who is celebrating is “Chronia Polla” which means “Many Happy Returns”, so if  you know any Nikos or perhaps a Niki or Nikoletta then you can be sure that he or she will be receiving many phone calls and visitors, all wishing them a great day!

It’s usually an “open house” on these days and friends and family know that if they want to visit they will be welcomed with a variety of pies, cakes and sweets. Greeks are renowned for being hospitable and are never more so than when celebrating a day which is special to their own family.

friends enjoying a drink and chat

can’t believe it’s nearly Christmas

beautiful blue sky

Where better to start – after my long break – than by mentioning the lovely weather we continue to have here!

Hard to believe it’s nearly December. When I was out pottering around in the garden earlier today the sun was shining and actually warm. Ok, you need a warm jacket early morning and once the sun goes down – but I  can cope with that.

My lilac even has some blossom, unusual for this time of the year.

The only indications of autumn are the colours around us – the golden leaves, bunches of chrysanthemums and – that favourite of mine, the tangerines appearing in the shops.

We had some rain a few weeks ago, right at the beginning of the olive harvesting but luckily it didn’t hinder us.

The island is quiet, enabling the local people to start enjoying the round of Name Days which are celebrated here in Greece.

And I am able to get stuck into the pile of books which have been left by guests during the summer.

I spotted a  robin  in the garden today, too, the first I’ve seen this year  - a comforting sight, and a reminder that  winter is just around the corner. They are like the daffodils in Spring, making me feel that no matter what, some things are constant. I wanted to take a photo of him, but by the time I found my camera he’d flown off and all I got was the tree! Never mind, I’m sure I’ll spot a few more from now on. And failing that there’ll be a robin redbreast or two on Christmas cards, decorating the house in the next few weeks.

new friends and old

The summer season is well underway, the days are definitely getting hotter and the evenings are just like those we read about – balmy, with the scent of honeysuckle in the air. Perfect for sitting out and relaxing with a glass of wine when the days work’s all done!

We have been busy here at Aberdeen and what I enjoy most is the combination of meeting new people and often forging new friendships as well as catching up with guests who have become friends over the years. 

Every week is different so we have had some quieter than others! 

Life is never dull, that’s the one thing  I can be sure of, with such a mixture of  people visiting.

I have a small library here, enabling guests to swap books, so we often have a natter discussing our favourite beach read.

Thassos is an island which sees many visitors returning regularly, but for those who are on their first trip,  most are delighted and surprised at how green the island is, even in the middle of summer.

have a dip and cool off

spring is in the air

Easter is not far off , the island, aptly referred to as the Emerald Isle or Green Island is showing its true colours and there is a sense of awakening as we all get ready for summer. Not that Thassos ever truly hibernates as there is always something going on, even in the middle of winter, but there’s definitely a change in the air now that we’re into April.

The island especially lives up to its name at this time of the year as all around the trees are in blossom and sprouting fresh new leaves, the grass is picture-book green and it’s great wakening to the sound of the birds chirping away. And all around there’s wild flowers, showing off their delicate Spring finery.     

I can’t believe Christmas was months ago and that in a matter of days I’ll be baking the Easter biscuits (koulourakia). These are delicious dunked into a cup of coffee.  They are baked in most Greek households before Easter and can be simply plaited or fashioned into quite intricate designs, one of my favourites being a ”nest” in which can be placed a traditional red- painted egg. 

The eggs are painted no Maundy Thursday, the day before Good Friday a solemn and important day in the Greek calender.

Another speciality is Easter bread (tsoureki) but I buy mine from the local baker as it is really tricky to do. I have mastered the koulourakia but will leave the tsoureki, deliciously fragrant and melting in your mouth, to the experts!

An exception to every rule

and in our case that’s stuffed peppers and tomatoes!

That’s one dish we can’t resist, even in the middle of winter. Considered a summer food, the filling of  rice and herbs goes down just as nicely on a cool day, when accompanied with feta cheese and salad of your choice.  

The feta, can, of course be fried, grilled or served the usual way with olive oil and a little oregano. I like to layer it in a ramekin-size clay pot with the oil and oregano, cover it with tinfoil and leave it by the charcoal on the fire. After about 15 minutes it’s ready.

Traditionally we use green bell peppers in this recipe but the long red ones are lovely and sweet so I add a few of those too.

If there is some space left in your baking tray add potato wedges. Delicious!

Something else I’ve learned is to stuff  hollowed-out courgettes, vine leaves or the delicate orange flowers from the courgette plant with any left-over mixture.( These last 2 don’t need as much baking so add them later.)

It’s a great vegetarian dish, easy to make at home or remember to ask next time you are in your favourite taverna. Don’t forget the retsina to accompany it!

How to get to Thassos

relax on the balcony

Thassos island, situated in Macedonia, Northern Greece can be easily reached, even more so with the completion of the Egnatia highway (E90)  which stretches from East to West of the mainland and I think this is reflected in the number of different nationalities who choose to visit us.

For anyone travelling by car,  by-pass Thessaloniki and Kavala and follow signs for the airport, Keramoti and Thassos. When you reach Keramoti port you enjoy a half-hour trip across and disembark in Limenas (also called Thassos Town).

For people travelling by plane there are regular flights between Athens and Kavala’s “Alexander the Great” airport, which is a mere 15 minutes taxi drive from the port of Keramoti.

Another option for those of you tempted to try the delights of Thassos, but  unsure how to go about it is to fly to Thessaloniki. You then have the choice of getting to Thassos by bus, hire car or taxi. It is approximately 2 1/2 hours drive from Thessaloniki to Keramoti. This is a popular option all year round.

 Two companies run ferries   regularly from very early in the morning till late at night and most people remark on how the relaxing boat trip across adds to the holiday, especially if you are lucky enough to spot dolphins whilst you are sailing.

The ferry port of Limenas is visible from “The Aberdeen” and even after all these years I still consider it a magical sight  it when I see the ferries all lit up with strands of lights sparkling, gliding  across from the mainland.

Our pride and joy

As I’ve mentioned in a previous post we prefer to eat what’s in season and who can blame us when we’re spoiled for choice here?!

I’ve just cut into one of our oranges and you wouldn’t believe how juicy it is and the aroma when you pierce the skin is so pungent  – like oranges used to be in “the good old days”.

We have  a tree outside one of the rooms and I can also admire it from my kitchen window, another well thought-out plan like the afore- mentioned pomegranate tree!  

Until I came here the only orange trees I’d seen were the miniature ones in flower pots, so I was quite excited to learn that I could plant  a”real” one and it would bear fruit. That was some 12 years ago and it has thrived, producing at least a crate of fruit each year.

Being an evergreen it’s beautiful to watch throughout the changing seasons – in May the delicate white blossom gives off  it’s unmistakable and heady scent, then in summer the tiny fruit (at that point green,looking more like limes) start growing. They start turning  a bright waxy orange  just as Autumn is approaching, then we have to wait till December to pick them – but it’s well worth the wait, take my word for it!

We planted another little orange tree last year and it’s tiny but still healthy, so I’m keeping my fingers crossed that in a few years time I’ll be collecting some fruit from it as well, then life will be twice as nice!

Aberdeen's oranges

carnival dates to remember

Well, it’s certainly all change down the town. The Christmas decorations and baubles have been packed away till next time and the shops are now decorating their windows with the vibrant, multi-coloured goods that signal the start of Carnival. You’ll find a variety of  outfits and accessories to suit all ages and all  tastes…

Anything goes. The little girls usually turn into glamorous princesses, ballerinas or fairies and their eyes light up when they see the tiaras and brightly coloured gowns for sale or hire.

The boys typically prefer outfits dictated by the hero of the time – Batman, Superman or maybe Spiderman.

Some more enterprising revellers will make their own outfits, so you’ll find all sorts down the town in the next while!

The parties start from next week, the beginning of February. Tavernas and Bars are open all hours providing food and drink for those who want to participate in the age-old customs.

Thursday 19th February is “Tsiknopempti” and wherever you are on the island  you’ll be unable to miss the aroma of meat sizzling. Fried, grilled, barbecued – you name it,  you’ll find it!  And all washed down with some ouzo or a drop of wine of course. Celebrations start early on in the day and continue till whenever…

Sunday (22nd) is ”Apokreas” so the carnivores amongst us have another round of meat-eating and revelling!

The following weekend  – from Saturday, 28th Feb till Monday 2nd March is when celebrations are in full swing all over the island. Whether you want to participate or simply spectate the choice is yours. Want to fly a kite, then the local shops and kiosks have a good choice. Need a mask or a wig? No problem.

Everyone is made to feel welcome and can join in the dancing or singing.

Traditionally Panagia, which is only 15 minutes from Thassos town on the bus or by car, hosts the biggest float parade on  Ash Monday. It’s held about lunchtime but the celebrations carry on till late….

Eat, drink and get merry…

hi from the Aberdeen

Now that the Christmas holidays are over people start focusing on the next event on the calendar which is Carnival time. This is a period of around 3 weeks during which time there are various events all over the island. There are fancy dress parties, for children and grown-ups. And during this time you’ll see revellers going around visiting friends. I know always to have a supply of sweets in the house to offer the children who’ll come to the door in their fancy dress – it reminds me of Hallowe’en back home in Scotland. (The only difference being that there are no turnip lanterns to be carved-out here! The children are smarter than we were – they keep their hands free for collecting their goodies!) Joking aside, I am always pleased when the children accept the small gifts offered to them with a smile and no complaints. Technology has obviously spread to Thassos as well as everywhere else but some traditions are still upheld as they have been for a long, long time and it hasn’t become a materialistic opportunity. The aim is to have fun, simple as that.

The climax of Carnival celebrations is marked with parades and kite-flying on Clean Monday (Ash Monday) which signals the start of Lent and traditionally fasting for the 40 days before Easter.

As with most traditions there is a special type of food to accompany this. In this case it is Lagana, a type of bread which is baked in all the local bakeries and can be bought fresh on the morning of Clean Monday. We don’t eat meat on this day so have a selection of salads, beans and seafood. I often make octopus stifado, a favourite of mine as the octopus is soft rather than chewy and the flavours of bay leaves, red wine and onions are delicious.

So much meat has been eaten over the Carnival period that most folk are ready to eat a simple diet  for a few weeks in preparation for the main celebration in the Greek calendar which is Easter.

I’ve always known pomegranates were special

our pomegranates, little n large

I might live on an olive grove but when I open my living-room shutters the first thing I see is my pomegranate tree. I call it “mine” as I deliberately planted it there, some 10 years ago, mainly so I could enjoy the tree when it is in blossom early summer. The thick waxy green leaves and vibrant orange trumpet-shaped flowers are a sight that’s guaranteed to make me feel all’s right with the world, as uplifting as the first daffodils in Spring peeping out of the earth and reminding us another year’s beginning.

When I was little I always thought pomegranates were so exotic and I would marvel at this “strange” fruit which appeared in the shops around Hallowe’en. Even now when I pick the fruit off my tree, mid October, I’ll be transported back to my childhood and frosty evenings gathering firewood for the Guy Fawkes’ bonfire.

Pomegranate trees can be found all over the island, you’ll see them gracing many a garden and we all keep one  fruit for the tradition at New Year of splitting it open outside the front door just after we have brought in the new year.   

Now  recognised as a super-food the pomegranate is very popular at the moment – but one thing still puzzles me – is there an easy way to eat it?! Should we pick the seeds out one by one with a pin, tap it lightly with a wooden spoon, or what?

I’m still patiently trying to work that one out, but enjoying it none the less.